Dupont Circle/Kalorama was once the fashionable address for Gilded Age tycoons, diplomats, politicians, and sophisticated socialites. Between the end of the 19th century and World War I (1914-1918) they flaunted their wealth and status by building grand winter mansions and town homes around the neighborhood's centerpiece circle. The Great Depression of the 1930s brought many changes to the area, but the splendid residences remain. Today they are homes to embassies, social clubs, private offices and institutions — not to mention time machines straight back to a lavish past.

Starting Point: Intersection of 19th Street, NW, and Dupont Circle, the south side at Dupont Circle, 19th Street Metro exit (Red Line).
Walking Time: Approximately one hour.
Add additional time for any museum visits.
Distance: 1.7 mile
Difficulty: A relatively easy walk, with one short hill (we'll warn you ahead of time).
Getting There: Best Bet: METRO
Metered parking is limited during the week. The parking situation improves somewhat on the weekends.

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When you exit the Metro escalator at the Dupont Circle 19th Street exit, cross 19th street at the light at 19th Street and the Circle. Proceed to your left (south) - past several restaurants - for a half block and turn right at the first corner, on Sunderland Place - a little side-street where the sign is often askew. Walk to the end of Sunderland Place, where it meets 20th Street and New Hampshire Avenue.

1. As you stroll down Sunderland Place, take a peek through the wrought iron fence at the lovely Victorian garden of Brewmaster's Castle. At the corner, you'll reach the entrance portico of this Victorian, brick and brownstone mansion at 1307 New Hampshire Avenue. Designed for self-made millionaire local brewer and real estate investor Christian Heurich (1846-1948), this home was completed in 1894. It was the first fireproof residence in Washington, built of poured concrete and reinforced steel. Step back in time as you tour this unusual house museum, in which the family's original art and furnishings are on display. You won't want to miss Heurich's breakfast room's murals promoting the virtues of beer drinking. Once outside, note the salamander on top of the tower, a creature from Greek mythology known to guard against fire.
Limited hours: Tours Wednesday at 12:15 pm and 1:15 pm.
Entrance fee
For Information: www.heurichhouse.org

As you exit the Brewmaster's Castle, turn to the right (north) and cross New Hampshire Avenue to 20th Street. Walk two short blocks north on 20th Street – crossing O Street – and continue to the corner of P Street. At the light, cross 20th Street at P Street and then cross P Street.

Insider's Insight: Washingtonians flock to this stretch of P Street for its quirky galleries and variety of dining opportunities. Along with American fare – both high end and fast food favorites – you'll find Italian, Japanese, Thai, Pan Asian, local seafood, bagels, and pizza. Whether you select a small restaurant, sidewalk café or larger dining room, here's a great area for a lunch break or dinner reservations.

Continue one short block on 20th Street. You'll pass a little plant store located in the rear of the oldest of Dupont Circle's early residences. You should now be standing at the corner of 20th Street and Massachusetts Avenue. Stop at this corner and take a look left (west) and right (east).

This stretch of Massachusetts Avenue, running east and west from Dupont Circle, is referred to as Embassy Row because of the many embassies now located in these old Dupont Circle mansions. Along your walk you'll see a fine display of colorful national flags. If you're not up on your country colors, small plaques note the nation occupying each embassy.

2. The bold, monochromatic brick and terracotta building, on your left, at 2000 Massachusetts Avenue is the Blaine Mansion built in 1881 for James G. Blaine, a Republican from Maine and three-time loser in his try for the White House. Note the decorative wrought iron details and pressed brick patterns in the chimneys. In 1901 George Westinghouse, of the electric company fame, bought this house and lived here until his death in 1914. This is the last standing Dupont Circle mansion of those homes that surrounded the circle in the earliest period of the area's development. Its newly renovated interior provides a historic setting for several firms.

Walk west on Massachusetts Avenue — away from Dupont Circle — to the elegant Walsh-McLean House at 2020 Massachusetts Avenue, now the Indonesian Embassy.

3.. The Walsh-McLean House, a fabulous Beaux-Arts style, 60-room mansion, was built in 1902 for rags-to-riches gold miner Thomas F. Walsh. At the time, it was Washington's most expensive residence. Note its graceful, undulating façade. Walsh had the main interior staircase constructed to resemble that found on an ocean liner. Walk to the corner of 21st Street to see the porte-cochere, (literally coach door), where carriages unloaded their distinguished passengers. It is said that Walsh embedded a gold slab in the arch of the main entrance to celebrate the source of his wealth. This was the childhood home of Evalyn Walsh, owner of the “jinxed” Hope Diamond who married Edward Beale McLean, heir to Washington's hometown newspaper, the Washington Post.
Tours by appointment only: 202.775.5200.

Insider's Insights As evidence of the neighborhood's rise and decline, it cost more than $835,000 to build this palatial house in 1902(today's equivalent of over $16 million), and in 1952 the Indonesian government was able to purchase the structure for $335,000. Also, if you're interested, you can view Walsh-McLean's Hope Diamond at the Smithsonian Institution's Natural History Museum.

Continue walking west on Massachusetts Avenue and cross 21st Street to 2118 Massachusetts Avenue — the Society of the Cincinnati Museum at Anderson House, on your left.

4. This Italianate palace known as Anderson House was built between 1902 and 1905 for career diplomat Larz Anderson III, and his wife, writer Isabel Weld Perkins. Although the limestone walls present a closed feeling from the street, once inside, you'll experience a grand openness from the large windows that face the south garden. The main floor is embellished with portraits and murals of family heroes, and you can almost see the ghosts in long gowns waltzing around the magnificent two-story ballroom. Anderson House is now the headquarters of the Society of Cincinnati, a benevolent organization established by George Washington for his officers and their direct male descendants. The Society maintains a genealogical library and research center.
Museum Hours: Tues. – Sat.; 1 pm – 4 pm.
Tours by appointment only: 202-785-2040.

As you leave Anderson House, look across the street to the fine building just to the right of the large black wrought iron fence. This is the Townsend House, now the Cosmos Club, at 2121 Massachusetts Avenue.

5. The luxurious taste of the Gilded Age is reflected in the Townsend House, completed in 1901 for railroad magnate Richard Townsend and his superstitious wife Mary Scott. Mary insisted that the architects build her new home around the existing Hillyer house, because a gypsy once predicted that she would die “under a new roof.” The magnificent landscaping is attributed to Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., renowned landscape architect of the White House the National Cathedral grounds and Rock Creek Parkway. Today the Cosmos Club, dedicated to “the advancement of its members in science, literature, and art” occupies this grand residence.
Not open to the public.

Continue walking west on Massachusetts Avenue toward 22nd Street.

Insider's Insights You are now approaching the original boundary of the City of Washington. At 22nd Street you will see Florida Avenue crossing diagonally on your right. Florida Avenue, originally called Boundary Street, marked the Western edge of the federal city in the 18th century.

6. At the intersection of 22nd Street, Q Street, and Massachusetts Avenue, you'll come to a triangular park. Masaryk Park was named for Tomas Masaryk, the Czech president who is considered the founding father of free Czechoslovakia. Masaryk wrote the Czechoslovakian Declaration of Independence in Washington in 1918, inspired by Woodrow Wilson, as well as Washington, Lincoln and Jefferson. There are benches here if you want to sit for a few minutes and take in the flow of the international scene.

Continue walking west on Massachusetts Avenue toward 23rd Street.

You're going to be curious when you see the small curb-side monument between 22nd and 23rd streets, as you approach Sheridan Circle. This memorial marks the spot of the 1976 car bomb that killed former Chilean Ambassador Orlando Letelier and his American assistant, Roni Moffit. Letelier had been the defense minister under Salvador Allende, the democratically elected socialist president of Chile. At the time of their deaths, Letelier and Moffit were both working at the Institute for Policy Studies. Chilean agents working for General Agusto Pinochet were charged and convicted of the assassination.

From where you stand at 23rd Street and Massachusetts Avenue, Sheridan Circle is directly ahead.

7. The powerful bronze statue dominating Sheridan Circle depicts a dashing Philip H. Sheridan, Civil War cavalry commander of the Army of the Shenandoah for the Union. He sits astride Rienzi, his partner through 85 battles. Gutzon Borglum, sculptor of Mount Rushmore, created the statue in which Sheridan waves his hat to rally his retreating men at an important battle near Winchester, Virginia. After this Union victory, Rienzi was renamed Winchester. The grand houses surrounding the circle reflect the westward movement of the elite in the early 20th century.

Stay on the left side of the street, cross 23rd Street and continue walking around Sheridan Circle. Half-way around, stop at the lovely stucco house at 2306 Massachusetts Avenue — now the Embassy of Latvia.

8. Seemingly out of place among the avenue's grand homes is the one-time studio and home of philanthropist and socialite Alice Pike Barney. Built in 1902 by the prolific Washington architect Waddy Wood, the Spanish Mission style of Barney Studio House, the first house to be built on the circle, is an interesting departure from Wood's more conservative works. (You will see other homes by Waddy Wood as you continue this tour.) In this romantic setting, Barney's celebrated salon hosted a dazzling array of Washington artists and literati between 1902 and 1924. The sculptured reclining woman that you see in front recalls her patronage of the arts.
Recently purchased by the Latvian Embassy, Barney's Studio House is undergoing extensive restorations. When completed, the public will be permitted inside to see the first two floors.

Continue around the circle to the light at 24th Street. Look across Massachusetts Avenue for the best view of the striking, light-colored structure on the corner at 2349 Massachusetts Avenue. Now cross Massachusetts Avenue for a closer look.

9. This romantic, French Renaissance style chateau, now the Embassy of Cameroon, marks the western edge of the avenue's great turn-of-the-century residences and the beginning of the neighborhood known as Kalorama. This notable example of Beaux-Arts residential architecture - a popular style along the avenue between 1900 and 1930 - by George Oakley Totten, Jr., was built in 1906 for Christian Hauge, a wealthy Norwegian diplomat who was the first Norwegian ambassador to the United States. His Kentucky-born widow, a prominent Washington hostess, remained here at Hague House until her death in 1927.
Not open to the public.

Turn right on 24th and take your next right onto S Street to 2340 S Street, the Woodrow Wilson House, the third house from the corner. Here's the hill we mentioned at the beginning of this itinerary. It is well worth the effort.

10. This is the home to which President Woodrow Wilson retired after leaving office. Woodrow Wilson House, often referred to as the “house on S Street,” is the only official presidential museum in Washington. Here's another structure designed by Waddy B. Wood, whose work includes that lovely Studio House of Alice Pike Barney that you just passed, as well as 30 mansions in the Dupont/Kalorama neighborhood. Edith Bolling Wilson once described their Georgian Revival home as “unpretentious, comfortable, dignified . . . fitted to the needs of a gentleman.” A tour of this “unpretentious” presidential museum, with its 1920 Victrola and other charming artifacts, reveals the lifestyle of the well-heeled during the Roaring ‘20s.
Hours: Tues. - Sun. 10 am – 4 pm.
Fee: Adults $7.50, Seniors $6.50, Students $3
For Information: www.woodrowwilsonhouse.org

Now, continue up S Street, about half a block, to 2320, The Textile Museum.

11. Just steps away from Wilson's House is The Textile Museum. John Russell Pope, better known as the designer of the classical Jefferson Memorial and National Gallery of Art, designed 2310 for George Hewitt Myers. Waddy B. Wood designed 2320 for Martha S. Tucker. Together these houses present the world-class collection of textiles and carpets that grew out of George Hewitt Myers's passion for textiles. With funds from the Bristol-Myers family, Myer could well afford this love affair, which dates back to the purchase of his first oriental rug while a student at Yale. It will be hard to leave without browsing the unique selections in the museum's gift shop.
Hours: Monday - Saturday 10am-5pm; Sunday 1-5 pm
For Information: www.textilemuseum.org

Insider's Insight: Look through the entrance doors to the garden to get a sense of the heights of Kalorama enjoyed by neighboring residents.

Continue for a very short walk up S Street — cresting at the Embassy of Ireland — to 22nd Street, the first right turn, which you'll see is a dead end. The street may be unmarked but you will certainly notice an elegant yellow house on the far side of 22nd Street. Turn right and walk to the end.

12. This delightful surprise — a little short cut — brings you to Washington's version of Rome's Spanish Steps. Our Spanish Steps once led to an 18th-century manor house named Kalorama, which gave its name to this neighborhood of stunning heights and rolling hills. In Greek, Kalorama means “beautiful view.” Washington's Spanish Steps were lovingly restored in 1999 by area groups listed on the plaque on the right as you descend. We love this tranquil spot with its sometime bubbling fountain. It's a perfect place to take a break after the S Street climb and contemplate the magnificent view once enjoyed by 19th century residents.

When you are ready to move on, walk down these steps and cross Decatur Place, staying on the left side of 22nd Street. As you stroll, you may see mothers pushing strollers, students toting book-bags, and neighbors going about their daily routines. Take a left on R Street and continue to 2133, four doors from the corner.

13. You won't be able to pass the Edward Lind Morse Studio at 2133 R Street without raising an eyebrow. Built in the Arts and Crafts style of the early 20th century, its simple façade makes it seem somewhat out of place in this neighborhood of ornate mansions and stately town homes. Note its heavy oak door and handcrafted hinges, and the three, whimsical, stout windows. The nationally renowned architectural firm of Hornblower and Marshall built the studio in 1902 for Edward Morse(1857-1823) a landscape painter and the youngest son of Samuel F. B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph.

Insider's Insight: Next door at 2131 R Street you'll find the house that Eleanor and Franklin Roosevelt rented from 1917 until 1920, when Franklin was assistant secretary of the Navy. Today it is the residence of the Ambassador of Mali. But some people might not know that this was once home to a future president of the United States!

Continue down R Street to Florida Avenue. Stop and take a look across Florida at the buildings to your left.

Insider's Insight: Washington's largest concentration of private, commercial art galleries are within walking distance of this area and are often located in the town houses – remnants of the days when this part of Dupont Circle was on the outskirts of Washington City and offered inexpensive housing to Washington's workers. As part of the monthly First Fridays, these galleries coordinate opening receptions from 6 to 8 pm, creating an enjoyable evening of browsing and buying. Gallery Guides are available at local galleries.
For information: www.artgalleriesdc.com

Now turn right on 21st Street, and walk half a block to one of Washington's premier art galleries, The Phillips Collection.

14. Duncan Phillips, heir to a steel fortune, amassed a spectacular art collection that filled his home. He opened his collection to the public in 1921, creating America's first museum of modern art. In the intimate setting of The Phillips Collection you'll see works by French Impressionists, Realists, and American Modernists. Renoir's Luncheon of the Boating Party hangs near paintings by Degas, Cezanne, Matisse, Daumier, and more contemporary American artists including Georgia O'Keeffe and Edward Hopper. The museum is housed in a series of buildings. The first, at 1612 21st Street, was built in 1897 and designed by Hornblower and Marshall. It presents an architectural blend of early American, Georgian, and Federal elements — certainly a sharp contrast to the design firm's Morse Studio, the Arts and Crafts building you just saw on R Street. The Goh annex, added in 1989, was designed by noted Washington architect, Arthur Cotton Moore. The gift shop offers artful gifts for all ages.
Hours: Tues. – Sat. 10 am–5 pm
Thurs until 8:30 pm; Sunday Noon–7 pm.
Closed Mondays.
Fee: For special exhibitions and on weekends.
For Information: www.phillipscollection.org

Insider's Insights The Phillips offers Artful Evenings each Thursday, featuring music, gallery talks, and socializing. Sunday afternoons feature concerts in the grand Music Room.

Leaving the Phillips, you'll be headed back to Massachusetts Avenue. Turn right as you leave the gallery and continue on 21st Street, crossing Q Street, to a triangular park to see the recently dedicated Gandhi memorial.

15. This moving, bronze statue of India's Mahatma Gandhi, by Gautam Paul is mounted on pink granite. It was a gift to the American people by the State of India. The Embassy of India is located across the street at 2107 Massachusetts Avenue in the former Thomas Murray House, a charming a symmetrical house with European character, built in 1901. During Dupont Circle's heyday, Gandhi (1869-1948) was developing his passive, nonviolent tactics in the struggles for Indian rights in South Africa. He went on to become the most important leader in India's successful effort to throw off the yoke of British colonialism. Gandhi was also an inspiration to Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., and others seeking peaceful social and political change.

This area should look familiar, as you are back to an earlier point on the tour – only now you are on the other side of Massachusetts Avenue.

Turn to your left (east) and walk to see the Dupont Memorial Fountain.

16. Dupont Circle's site was designated in the original plans for the City of Washington, and was located at what was then the western edge of the original city. Soon it became known as Pacific Circle, reflecting its distance from the more built-up sections of the city near the White House. After the Civil War, the circle was renamed to honor Samuel Francis du Pont, the first naval hero for the Union cause. The du Pont family contributed a statue for the circle, but eventually took it back and commissioned a replacement. In 1921 this wonderful fountain was installed. Three fluid figures representing the Arts of Ocean Navigation – the Sea, Wind, Stars – adorn its base. The fountain was sculpted by Daniel Chester French who is better known in this town for his moving Lincoln Memorial. Plan to linger in Dupont Circle itself, where chess players, office workers, and dog walkers mingle with a diverse crowd of neighbors and urban adventurers.

Insider's Insights As you've noted along your walk, your choices of what to do next in this neighborhood are endless. Are you ready to eat? To shop? To see more? To your north, on Connecticut Avenue, you'll find more galleries, more bookstores (new and used), coffee houses, and an international line-up of restaurants – Mexican, American, Indian, Italian, Chinese. Connecticut Avenue, south of Dupont Circle, offers more dining opportunities and shopping, from local boutiques to national favorites.

This ends our Dupont Circle/Kalorama walking itinerary. We hope you've enjoyed exploring this neighborhood as much as we enjoyed sharing our love of the city's history and our Insider's Insights.

We'd enjoy hearing from you. Please contact Cultural Tourism DC with your comments and questions.

Watch for our next walking itinerary coming soon.